Tuesday, November 20, 2012

i find that when doing laundry by hand,
it's best to go sans pants

i prefer to just stick with a couple of baggy shirts and a some woolen knee-high socks. 

sometimes i mix it up by throwing on a giant pair of men's sandals just to add a touch of that oh-i'm-just-shuffling-about-the-place feel.

i always like to finish by hanging said laundry out on a balcony overlooking the adriatic on an incredibly sunny november day. 

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

i just can't stay away from pakoštane

the tourists are long gone.

the storm that flooded the town just before our arrival is slightly less long gone.

the sunset is mine, all mine!

just another quiet sunset in pakoštane, croatia

Tuesday, November 13, 2012

what does one do with one's old moat?

i dunno.

wall it up and use it to store your munitions?

start working on your graffiti skills?

 install a beer fridge?

dump your oversize garbage there to avoid paying the oversize garbage pickup fee?

so many options, really.

Sunday, November 11, 2012

zadar in the morning

is empty this time of year. quiet. still. we sit alone at cafe brasil sipping coffee and gazing at the adriatic and its islands while the sound of the morske orgulje (sea organ) lulls us into perfect peace.

designed by architect nikola bašić, the sea organ is comprised of 35 organ pipes built into the coast under seventy meters of marble steps.

the sea's movement produces musical tones that can be heard through vertical slits cut in the risers of the steps.

it sounds like this (minus the italian guy):

* photo from postcard of zadar with no attribution

zadar in the evening

and we're back at cafe brasil to enjoy a little vino and the sunset view.

when darkness falls and the november chill sets in, we sometimes tear ourselves away from the stillness and the sound of the sea organ to join the owner inside the cafe to chat awhile over the strains of caro emerald.

caro emerald a night like this (filmed in croatia)

caro emerald stuck

zadar at suppertime

before heading back home for dinner we spend a little time at the pozdrav suncu (greeting to the sun); a 22-meter diameter circle made of three hundred multi-layered glass plates, flush with the stone promenade, pulsing light powered by photo-voltaic cells to the rhythm of the waves and sounds of the sea organ. how's that for a mouthful? spectacular.

 photo: zadar tourist board (www.tzzadar.hr)

if you want to see it top form, skip to 7:00 on the video below.
sea organ and greeting to the sun, zadar croatia

Saturday, November 10, 2012

three old pointy things in zadar, croatia

st. simeon's tower - 16th/17th century

st. francis of assisi monastery - 12th/13th century

st. mary's - 11th century

Friday, November 9, 2012

a tiny history lesson about zadar croatia

zadar has been occupied by someone or another since pre-historic times.

by the 7th century BC, it was an important center of trade with with phoenicians, etruscans, and ancient greeks.

then the romans started invading the place around the 2nd century BC, and finally succeeded somewhere around 59-ish BC.

a bunch of other stuff happened, including romans' building walls to fortify the city, and then venice started invading in the 1100's.

venice took over the fortifying business - with zadar eventually becoming the most heavily fortified city in venice's portfolio - and eventually, among other things, built this kopnena vrata, or "landward gate" by the lovely little fosa harbor (below) in 1543.

apparently all that fortifying business worked out pretty well because they managed to fight off the ottoman turk invaders that besieged the place in the 16th and 17th centuries - inflicting quite a bit of damage along the way, sir.

the most damage, though, i think has occurred in the 20th century, when a university was established in the old town, thus paving the way for a new wave of invading hordes; rootless, unconscious youth who smear what's left of the beautiful old architecture with crappy graffiti.

Wednesday, November 7, 2012

i am finally back on the adriatic coast and all is well in the world once again.

my lovely little apartment is in this building in the walled old town part of zadar croatia.

that teeny window up there in what appears to be the attic is the only window in said apartment.

my only exit is down a 4 story spiral staircase with extra super steep steps.

i'm thinking it's time to brush up on my how-to-make-an-escape-rope-from-a-bedsheet skills.

this is the view from my window.  well, more specifically, it's the view reflected in the glass of the open window since i'm too lazy to get out of bed at the moment. 

it's the corner of a cute little old sun bleached red building with the pointy bits of the st. francis of assisi monastery (built in the 12th- 13th century) towering above it.


can you believe how blue the sky is?  it's really that blue.  i love the dalmatian coast...

Friday, November 2, 2012

z brings me coffee in bed every morning. every morning.

 and treats. 

this morning was a double treat-er.  little cookies accompanied by extra special wafer thin chocolate covered mints.  of the finest quality, no less! 

how lucky am i?  very, i'd say.

Thursday, November 1, 2012

and a permanent on the playlist

The GuruGanesha Band and Guru Singh Thousand Suns

"ang sung wahe guru" in the gurmukhi language translates to:
the dynamic, living ecstasy of the infinite source of all is dancing within my every cell

may the light of a thousand suns shine through
live the life of grace that you were meant to 

carry the light of god's love into this world
be the open heart the earth longs for.