Tuesday, September 29, 2009

brunch before beach in budva


fuel for frogging around in the adriatic all day

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

you're never too old to rock the adriatic!


- uh, and no, that's not me. yeah, thanks.
photo by nico and/or chris

Sunday, September 20, 2009

i am exhausted


i mean, really, bobbing around in the adriatic all day, every day is simply exhausting. it's all i can do to drag my butt back home and eat whatever fabulous meal zeljko has prepared for me.

Friday, September 18, 2009

the last 4

why host just 1 or 2 couchsurfers at a time when you can host 4 at a time?

seriously though, it really is much more fun to have a houseful. well, at least for me. maybe not so much for the surfers who have to sleep on the floor...

anyway, joining agata - and then swapping out agata for lucia - to make the end of our hosting season in budva especially crunchy and mellow:


nicolas, from the french speaking part of belgium,
and who is not a fascist



chris, also from the french speaking part of belgium,
also clearly not a fascist


and lucia from uruguay (although most recently dublin, ireland),
a hitchhiking, spanish-teaching, dog-loving vegan (who added a few dishes to zeljko's repertoire),
and who, although we did not specifically discuss it,
i'm pretty sure is also not a fascist.

Thursday, September 17, 2009

agata of the couchsurfing, sailboat surfing variety



agata, immigrated from poland to the u.s. when she was 4, now back in poland on a fulbright scholarship.

agata, come and gone so quickly.  ok, maybe i pushed her out, but it was so she could take advantage of a free, yes free, croatian island hopping opportunity that had just dropped in her lap.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

andy and mau: our unintentional surfers

we met andy and mau (maureen) from england at the prince, our favorite pub/internet cafe in budva. they were vacationing north of budva and had bused here for the day to check out stari grad and enjoy the beach. we immediately hit it off, so we plied them with beer, they plied us with beer, and after much mutual plying - we lured them back to our place with promises of the best balcony in budva, pasta bolognese, and more beer. many, many hours later, after the last bus back to their place was long gone, we had our next batch of couchsurfers. i think that there's nothing better than couchsurfing, except maybe for spontaneous couchsurfing...

Thursday, September 10, 2009

romancing the worm. ringworm, that is.

texas tea. black gold.  ok, never mind.  guess you had to be there. 

look, it climbed up on my lap, made biscuits, then promptly fell asleep.  what was i gonna do?  well, what i didn't do was touch it, despite my overwhelming desire to do so, lest this happen to me again.

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

stari grad (old town) in kotor monenegro


i could live on this street


or this street


or here


or here (even though it's not actually in stari grad...)

Monday, September 7, 2009

the migration patterns of the happily disillusioned

so i had a little issue come up the other day. i had to get out of montenegro since the 90 days i could legally be here on just a passport were about up.

the great thing about montenegro - since it's not a member of the infamous schengen gang - is that once you exit, you can just re-enter and the 90 day clock starts over. not true with those schengen thugs whose 25 (damn you switzerland for joining them in 2008!) member countries who, unless you manage to wrangle a temporary residence permit out of them, only allow you to stay a total of 90 days within any 180 day period. that's not 90 days in each country. that's 90 days cumulative across all the member countries.

so anyway, the point is that i had to get out of montenegro for a bit. and you know what that meant? roadtrip!!!!

after 3 months, yes 3 (hello!) friggin' months in one place, i was finally on the road again! ok, indulge me. it was only for a couple days, but it... was.... the.... road!!!!!

hitchhiking from montenegro to croatia was glorious! and when i say glorious, i don't say it, i sing it - glorrrrr-iiiiiii-usssssssss!

and i finally got to hitch a taxi!!!!

ok, it's hard to explain it, but i was glowing when z and i had to walk the 1.2 kilometers (uphill, mind you) of no-man's land between the montenegrin border crossing exit and the croatian border crossing entry. glowing! i know it seems a bit silly, but for some reason, there’s just something fun about walking a border crossing, about “pulling up” to the border crossing guard booth on foot.

now, if you're wondering why hitchhikers end up walking across border crossings, well, sometimes drivers go out of their way to take you all the way to the border crossing even though they're not crossing the border themselves. and sometimes drivers who would normally love to give you a ride decide they don’t want to have to explain to a border guard why they have an international criminal in the back of their car, if indeed you turn out to be an international criminal... in this particular case, our lovely just-gone-off-duty montenegrin taxi driver couldn't take his employer-owned taxi over the border.

so anyway, i wasn't glowing just because i walked another border crossing. i was glowing because i was on the road and there were very few cars on that road, and it was getting dark, and dubrovnik was still a long way away. who would be our next ride and when would they come? (ok, so it turns out our next ride picked us up just steps after the croatian border crossing guards allowed us entry, but it could have taken longer…)

but the point is that z and i were on the road together on our first long distance hitch. he was in thongs. cheap little rubber thongs and he was walking the border crossing with me - at dusk!. and it as okay with him! z was okay with it all!

i was ecstatic in the moment. i thought about alex and bruno from aix-en-provence now on foot in southeast asia. i thought about vincent and marie from paris - the "delighted caravan" heading to india. i thought about the last group of couchsurfers we had just hosted, all of them solo hitchhikers who happened to converge on our place at the same time, all of them from different parts of the world and all of them heading to different parts of the world.

i thought about all of us, all of us disillusioned with the trappings of conventional life and, all of us following our own migration patterns across the globe and happily - ecstatically - finding meaning in the places and people and moments along the way.

Friday, September 4, 2009

30 couchsurfers in 60 days

i tried to write about it - specifically the last 10 days of non-stop hosting - but i'm still too tired.  it'll just have to wait until i've had enough "me" time and feel like sorting through my thoughts and photos and stuff and junk.  until then, this'll have to do:

david, our australian marine biologist


florian, the german didjeri dude
and environmental conservation student


james, our international relations student
and danielle, our molecular biologist

uh, how many people am i cooking for?

tevolving